His own pub food series starts soon on BBC2 and the book to go with it is packed with recipes that feel right for a night in a pub, or for making in autumnal England.
Kerridge grew up in Gloucester and there’s a nostalgic West Country slant to several dishes, which are divided into breakfasts, soups and salads, starters and snacks, fish, meat, puddings and basics. Cider and beer feature alongside recipes for regional treats such as lardy cake but there are cheffy influences too.
Kerridge loves his blowtorch, using it to char lettuce for a salad with soft-boiled egg, anchovy and salad cream; add colour to lemon wedges served with skate and dandelion leaves; or darken poached chicory for duck confit. He also likes cooking big hunks of meat.
He insists that good food should be accessible but he can’t resist including labour-intensive dishes such as homemade pork pie with piccalilli, or pig’s trotters and bacon on toast.
There are quick dishes, too, but check the recipe to see what you’re letting yourself in for. I tested the toffee apple crumble tart, which involves making pastry, crumble, treacle toffee and an apple filling.
It was impressive but not relaxing, especially when the toffee refused to break and instead slid stickily all over the kitchen.
This is project cooking but when the TV series starts, Kerridge is likely to make it look as easy as sitting in the pub.